The 39 looks of the GAUCHERE Fall Winter 2023 collection declare the house’s continual direction to focus on the person who is wearing the garment and their real-life existence. For the second time in a row, Marie-Christine Statz decided for the atmosphere of the Passage des Jacobins as the ideal place to reflect the mood of the collection.
The toned-down colour code is built on a palette of different greys, shades of light brown, cream, white and lots of black. The mainly monochrome looks are accentuated by a bright grass green print. Marie-Christine Statz extracted the motif from an untitled work that Camille Henrot painted in 2022. It was transformed on sand coloured viscose resembling canvas. The oversized shirt, mid-length skirt and sleeveless top are constructed with placed slits that form their individual shapes and reshape the artwork in movement.
The growing bond and stimulating dialogue between Marie-Christine Statz and Camille Henrot led to a series of black & white looks including a Pyjama – one that could have been worn by Schnabel or Basquiat in the 1980s with an all-over pattern of Henrot’s erotic drawings, arranged in dangerous promiscuity.
As per DNA, tailoring provides the essence and larger part of the winter collection. This season, the garments’ inherent precise silhouettes are broken up by seamed slits on coats, jackets, skirts, and trousers. Fabrics with different weights such as classic Italian menswear pinstripes and heavier loden fabrics alternate in one piece and modify the shape. Open edges and large pleats deconstruct dresses, blazers, and knits. All these precise manipulations of the garments come to life in different ways – depending on the individual who wears them.
Washed-out grey denim jackets and trousers play with volume and pleats. Asymmetric ribbed, pleated or skin-tight knits are made of 90s vintage yarn. Shiny lacquered cotton, patent linen and sequins are shown in off-the-shoulder dresses, high waisted trousers and bubble tops. Black leather, textured brushed wool, techno or cotton jerseys, and semi-transparent soft wool serge are cut into oversized turtleneck sweaters and draped into floor long backless dresses, midi skirts and cropped tops with a boyish femininity.